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Glenn Martens's Diesel 2025 Autumn and Winter Show officially landed at Milan Fashion Week, setting off a party frenzy with deconstruction style.
DIESEL This season implements the image of self-defeat, bringing various bolder, more decadent, more innovative and lower waist designs. The show unfolds in the largest graffiti installation in history, with more than three kilometers of graffiti fabrics created by a global street art group composed of about 7,000 amateur and professional graffiti artists, like a poem of the soul of the street.
“It's great to see thousands of creators around the world join in the show set design. We give street art global complete freedom to express themselves in their own unique ways. This project took months to complete, which is the national spirit that DIESEL is upholding.” – Glenn Martens, Creative Director, DIESEL
DIESEL's language—denin, tooling, popular elements, handicraft—can achieve multi-dimensional collisions through deconstruction and reorganization. The brand recreates and upgrades the classic silhouette and builds a new aesthetic system in the subverting process format.The nimble cut abandons the collar design, the tweed jacket is embellished with a denim waist, which simulates the waist shape of jeans, and the layered jacquard shorts show an old denim texture. Men's clothing is cut with untreated burrs, and neoprene bonded fabric highlights the original industrial texture; women's clothing is matched with Basque tailored tweed tops with skinny jeans, and the removable danning skirt reconstructs traditional proportions.
The ultra-high waist tweed jacket competes with the same material Basque tailoring top. The bottom is paired with an ultra-low waist tweed skirt with strong visual impact, and the drape contrast is achieved through the built-in elastic waist. This type of ultra-low waist design still runs through the entire series, from skirts, trousers to jeans, sometimes strengthening integrity with elastic belts, and sometimes creating conflicts and forming reversal differences.
Experimental designs throughout the entire range, with plasticized denim jackets, brasses and jeans presenting a full-piece coating process, retaining only the functional cut of the pocket. The tulle flocking process simulates the deconstruction marks of clothing, and the crimp knitted texture is like the embossed marks on the suspended body surface. The tulle fabric remade by the jacquard loom weakens the original texture of the denim, and is deconstructed and transformed into a dress, strapless gown, or a covered silver foil jacket and coat.Extremely low-rise Diesel bumper jeans are cleverly blended with adjustable lining to ensure a fit. Its bold design breaks the boundaries and is matched with a breast-sized patch with equal proportions of shirt patterns printed on it, which fits casually on the body, creating avant-garde and eclectic visual aesthetic.
Double D handbags are made of tweed material to interpret intelligence and elegance. This season, two neutral bags are launched simultaneously: Flag-D lazy silhouette tote bags are equipped with imitation pony hair embossed wide-length logo shoulder straps; Load-D oval bags are embedded with the brand's iconic D logo at both ends, building an industrial-style symbol. Men's short boots are equipped with an extra-thick toothed rubber sole, while slippers are made of old-fashioned houndstooth check fabric. Tweed cat heels are stamped with three-dimensional D logo on the toe, while the same series of tweed or old denim high heels continue the texture through the molded heels.
The first release of the glasses series Liquifie-D series: the resin gradient tone creates a thick texture that blends curves and straightness, and the liquid hinge structure supports Oval D Logo. The new watches D-Curve, Wrap-D and D-Rush reconstruct the brand’s iconic Oval D logo through three-dimensional curved surface technology, realizing the evolution from flat logo to wearable sculpture.
Interested readers please pay attention to the relevant reports on Milan Fashion Week.
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