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No, this is not a “face donut” or a swimming pool ring, but Alaïa's latest autumn and winter series “Summer Fall”. Leaded by Pieter Mulier, this season's show focuses on the feeling of transformation. Some designs are wrapped like silkworm cocoons, while others show geometric beauty, which is very eye-catching.
This is Alaïa's first appearance on the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week (as you can see from the season name of “Summer Fall”, the brand is never afraid of breaking the rules). Last fall, they skipped directly over Paris and ran to the Guggenham Museum in New York to hold the first fashion show in history. This time, Mulier continues Azzedine Alaïa's persistence in sculpture, geography and fashion, bringing a deeper interpretation.
On the stand, the cloth tube surrounds the model's head, frames the face like a traditional portrait, paying tribute to Alaïa's classic inheritance of feminine beauty; with these tubular frames, the pleated skirt extends outward from the waist, and is light and floating with the brand's signature cardboard technique, with a full visual effect. On the other side, thick horizontal tubes are molded into the braided and fur coat, continuing the evolution of last season's Charles James coat. When the model completed its transformation, the fur coat and frilled dress swayed on the show, as if ignoring gravity, the tassel floral shoes jumped out from below, very eye-catching.
The show also included bronze sculptures by Dutch artist Mark Manders, whose work has always fascinated Mulier. These sculptures echo Azzedine's Tunisian origin and the globalized image of Alaïa's female. To commemorate the series, Alaïa also released a short film directed by Shayne Laverdiere, revealing the behind-the-scenes process of the show from casting to the birth of design.
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